Destinations · Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania
The Baltics
Three capitals with three of Europe's best-preserved old towns, and empty forest, bog and coast in between. Fly into Tallinn, drive south, fly home from Vilnius.
Why here
The Baltic states are small, safe, affordable and still uncrowded. Tallinn has a medieval walled town that looks like a film set and a tech-driven café culture around it. Riga has the largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in Europe and a huge central market in old Zeppelin hangars. Vilnius is Baroque, hilly and relaxed, with a self-declared artists' republic in Užupis. Between the cities: national parks, manor houses, Soviet-era relics and a coast of pine forest and white sand where you can walk for an hour without seeing anyone.
Ten days that work
Three nights in Tallinn: the old town, the Kadriorg palace park and the Seaplane Harbour museum, plus a day in Lahemaa national park with its bog boardwalks and fishing villages. Drive south (4h, or 2h to Pärnu on the coast for a night) to Riga for three nights: Art Nouveau quarter, Central Market, and a day at Jūrmala beach or Sigulda's castles in the Gauja valley. Then via the Hill of Crosses at Šiauliai to Vilnius for three nights, with a half-day at Trakai island castle. Fly home from Vilnius.
Do you need a car?
Useful between cities, not inside them. Lux Express coaches link the three capitals in about four hours each and are comfortable and cheap, so a car-free version works. The car pays off for Lahemaa, the Curonian Spit or the coast, and one-way hire between the countries is normal with no extra border paperwork. Roads are good and traffic light.
Good to know
- All three countries are in the EU, the euro and Schengen. Card payment is universal; Estonia is nearly cashless.
- English is widely spoken by anyone under fifty. Russian is common among older people; a few words of Estonian, Latvian or Lithuanian go a long way.
- Summer days are very long: sunset after 22:00 in June. Midsummer (23 to 24 June) is the biggest holiday of the year and the countryside shuts down to celebrate.
- Prices are well below Western Europe: a good dinner for two with wine is €50 to €70 in the capitals.
- Winter is dark, cold and beautiful, with Christmas markets in all three old towns, but it is a different trip. This one is for May to September.
Other destinations
Switzerland · AustriaThe Alps
Lakes and passes from the Bernese Oberland to Tyrol. A car opens up the valleys; the mountain trains do the rest.
- Best
- Jun–Sep · Dec–Mar
- Fly to
- Zürich or Innsbruck, ~1h30
- Car
- Useful, not essential
PortugalThe Algarve
Cliff walks between Lagos and Carvoeiro, and the quiet eastern coast towards Tavira.
- Best
- Apr–Jun · Sep–Oct
- Fly to
- Faro, ~3h
- Car
- Recommended
ItalyThe Amalfi Coast
Base in Sorrento or Ravello and move by ferry and bus. This is the one place we advise against a car.
- Best
- May–Jun · Sep
- Fly to
- Naples, ~2h30
- Car
- Skip it
