The Azores

Why here

The Azores are Portuguese, European and unlike anywhere else in Europe. São Miguel, the main island, has twin lakes in a volcanic crater at Sete Cidades, a steaming valley at Furnas where lunch is cooked in the ground, tea plantations, hydrangea hedges along every road and a coast of black rock and natural swimming pools. Pico has a 2,351 m volcano and UNESCO-listed vineyards growing in lava; Faial has a caldera you can walk around; and the channel between them has some of the most reliable whale and dolphin watching in the world.

A week that works

Five nights on São Miguel, ideally split between Ponta Delgada and the Furnas or Nordeste side: the Sete Cidades viewpoints and lake walk, Lagoa do Fogo, a hot-spring afternoon at Terra Nostra or Poça da Dona Beija, a cozido lunch in Furnas, the north-east coast viewpoints and a whale-watching trip from Ponta Delgada or Vila Franca. Then fly (40 minutes) or, with more time, take the ferry to Pico for three nights: the vineyards at Criação Velha, the whaling museum at Lajes, a boat to Faial's Horta harbour, and, for the fit, the guided night climb of the mountain for sunrise.

Do you need a car?

Essential. Public transport is sparse, the best viewpoints and trailheads are on small roads, and the weather means you often change plans mid-day to follow the sun. Roads are good but narrow and steep in places; a small car is easier than a big one. Book early for July and August, when the islands run out of hire cars.

Good to know

• The Azores are two hours behind the Netherlands and in the EU, euro and Schengen.
• Weather changes every hour and every valley. "Four seasons in a day" is literally true; pack layers and a rain shell in every month. Cloud sits on the craters often, so check the SpotAzores webcams before driving up.
• Sea temperature is 18 to 23 °C. The swimming is in natural lava pools and a few sand beaches; it is not a beach destination.
• Whale season for sperm whales and dolphins is year-round; blue and fin whales pass in April and May.
• Prices are moderate: €15 to €20 for lunch, €100 to €160 for a good double room.